Swells are collections of waves produced by storm winds raging hundreds of miles out to sea, rather than the product of local winds along beaches. They are formed by a combination of factors and are coveted by surfers looking to catch a big wave. However, they are not so revered by boaters as large swells can capsize ships.
NOTE THESE SWELLS ARE PRODUCED BY STRONG LOW PRESSURE SYSTEMS SUCH AS HURRICANES AND EVEN WINTER STORMS MOVING OVER THE OCEAN.
NATIONAL HURRICANE CENTER
...LARRY APPEARS POISED TO INTENSIFY FURTHER... ...RISK OF RIP CURRENTS AND HIGH SURF FROM LARRY'S SWELLS INCREASES FOR THE LESSER ANTILLES BY SUNDAY...
11:00 AM AST Fri Sep 3
Location: 14.8°N 40.7°W
Moving: WNW at 16 mph
Min pressure: 981 mb
Max sustained: 90 mph
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